I was quite optimistic on my way to the ferry. And I was lucky actually. Instead of a long stand-by wait, I could purchase a ticket straight ahead. I also got a cabin so I needn’t to spend the night in some kind of an armchair in a dorm. That was a bit more expensive but at least I would find some sleep until Devonport.
The waiting time until check in passed quickly, because there was another cruise ship at the pier with lots of American tourists who were happy to see all the American stickers on my boxes, looking for some of their hometown area. Funny! 🙂
Well, I didn’t really had a proper plan for Tassi, so I decided spontaneously to discover the north-west at first. On my GPS were some sights on my way which could offer nice breaks from riding. At the light house at Table Cape I was advised to go for the Dip Falls and Big Tree as well. Next to the light house was a tulip nursery and the people there were very proud to export them even to the Netherlands. I was quite astounded.
The GPS also showed an alternative route to the falls and the tree, narrow roads, not shown on the regional map. That could be fun and if there’re tourists coaches on their way to these spots as well, they would rather prefer the more developed road.
I few kilometers later, I was quite aware why these roads were not on the public map: What started as a normal gravel road, turned into a pretty rocky track, which went straight and steep through the hills. Deep mud holes were plenty on the track and fallen trees had to be ridden over. I didn’t even had proper tyres for the mud holes, so I had to roll through them in one single turn. Getting stuck here is not an option. And that with all the camping stuff on the rear of the bike. I ended up in an area where they harvest trees and these tracks were usually used by dozers. Noticeable was also the number of snakes, which were warming up on the track. Did you know these animals can push up half a meter approx. easily? I didn’t!
After 40km I was happy to have ‘normal’ gravel under my wheels again, but the ride was great fun anyway. According to the motto: I am not lost, I’m just exploring.
Stanley, located in the west of Tasmanian’s north coast, was my first stop. It’s a small, cute village, I instantly felt in love with. Here, I’d love to stay a couple of days. And the small village has a lot to offer, which makes a stay worthwhile: A beautiful campground by the beach, the ‘Nut’ with lots of wonderful outlooks, a good cafe, a cute and cheap restaurant (and some expensive ones) and the historic homestead which deals critically with its history – some massacre against the aboriginal people started here.
Stanley is also a good starting point to ride the Terkin Drive, a some 260km long circuit course with wild costal parts at Couta Rocks, rivers, rainforests and plenty more of beautiful nature. An absolutely worthwhile day trip on narrow, windy roads. And most of the tour, you’ll have the area almost on your own.
The next day I headed for Queenstown; a not even 200km short trip. In the morning it was very windy and I was happy to pitch down the tent in one piece. Because of the wind, the ride was rather kind of work. Nevertheless, the Murchison Hwy and the B28 lead through a beautiful landscape in the mountains, passing lovely lakes.
Queenstown wasn’t the place I wanted to stay. It’s rather like a ghost town and the campground wanted to charge 25 bugs for a spot in the dirt. No way. There’s supposed a nicer one in Wayatinah, so I hit the road again.. Via an almost alpine Lyell Hwy, you’re passing Derwent Bridge, where an artist is working on an 100m long and 2m high timber wall to display Tasmanian’s history. Very impressive!!
But it’s also clear, that Wayatinah wouldn’t be the goal of today’s trip. It’s on an elevation of more than 500m and even in the afternoon it’s already VERY COLD! I’m not gonna pitch up my tent here. Almost quite tired, I continued to New Norfolk. There my day trop should FINALLY come to an end. Really?? When I approached Now Norfolk the woods were on fire. There’s no way I’m gonna stay here. Continued to Hobart where I eventually found a room in a motel.
There I was told the fires were man made in order to prevent bush fires, and are not dangerous at all. How should I have known that???
And how small the world is: At Salamanca market I ran into Birgit and Bruce again. We met first somewhere in the Flinders Ranges. A couple of weeks later on a campground in Clare Valley again and now here on the market square. Isn’t it funny?
Birgit and Bruce invited me to join them for a classic concert that night and we were hiking the next day together. I really appreciated that and how good it was to be in company again. Thank you so much!!
A few visits in museums and galleries later (MONA is a MUST!) it was time to ride north again.
I chose the inland route via Campbell Town and Latrobe. From here it’s just a short step to the ferry back to Melbourne.
Cool, und nun bist Du schon wieder zurück in Australien?